Siem Reap – The Way We Saw It – Pt 3

Chong Kneas, a floating village at the edge of the great Tonle Sap was initially not a place we planned to visit due to many bad reviews posted online.  However, we changed our minds and decided to drop by for a look ... a decision we did not regret as that trip exposed us to poverty of a greater magnitude.

Tonle Sap is the largest lake in South-East Asia which expands and shrinks considerably  in tune with the seasonal rise and fall of water.  Our visit to Chong Kneas village coincides with the dry season and the lake is less than a fifth of its size when in full glory.  Thus, most of the houseboats in this floating village were anchored at the edge of the lake. 

The moment we entered into the village, both our olfactory and visual system  were simultaneously assaulted by the fish stench and sight of houses in deplorable condition.  The muddy condition of the waters is another sore sight, the thought of the residents using it for brushing their teeth, bathing and washing clothes and dishes is unimaginable.  Houseboats and stilted homes lined up on the edge of the lake due to the dry season.  Looking at the condition of those houses, one can’t help but wonder how they stand against the onslaught of rain and wind during the rainy season? We walked further down the sandy road, taking in more pitiful sights. 

However, beyond the pitiful state, we noticed that the people here actually seem carefree and merrily going about their lives unfazed by the lacking condition.  In the heat of the afternoon, people were seen taking naps, playing cards and chatting on the bamboo balconies.  Some were mending their fishing nets , drying out fish in the hot sun and we even saw a boat hauling in aluminium cans for recycling purpose.

Yes, this is their home

This is not an illegal gambiling den, just friends passing time with a game of card

A different kind of haul for the day

Kids cool themselves off in the muddy water, some playing games on the sandy bank or just running about, posed a warm picture, one that potrays children’s innocence at its best.  We watched a little girl, barely 2 years of age, soaking in the shallow waters of the lake, another older girl proudly carrying her prized soft toy, young boys playing marbles and another kid drawing on the sand.  Lured by their innocence and joy, I tried my hand on the marbles game and earned a few laughs from the kids for my clumsy attempt.  Later, went over to the little boy drawing on the sand and taught him how to write the numbers.  He was very attentive, and it was a fresh change to see a kid wanting to learn instead of being forced to it. Communication with them is not easy as they do not speak English but sometimes words are not necessary. 

It takes high level of immunity to be swimming in these waters

A game of marbles

A girl with her prized gorilla

What lies beyond the lake for me?

Lessons in the sand

We walked around in the hot sun, Hubby taking photos, most which did not turn out well and doesn’t really do justice to the actual situation there.  I found myself reflecting on these people’s lives and their fate, so much different from ours.  We marvelled at their simple outlook in life, living in hardship but yet able to find a reason to smile.  They live life in the most basic manner, the menfolk bring home the fish and the womenfolk cooks the fish and everyone eat up the fish to satisfy their hunger.  In their free time, they either rested or chat with their neighbours. The kids, devoid of modern toys or electronic gadgets, make up games out of what they can find and play happily. Despite their hard lifestyle, we notice that they smile and laugh often...

Wearing nothing but a smile

The absence of doors and fences in these homes is an indication of the safety and peace in this neighbourhood.  There is no fear of intruders breaking in to steal things. In fact, there is nothing much of value to take.  In a close-knit community like this, where everyone knows each other, kids getting lost or abducted is not a worry to them.  In contrast, modern city folks constantly have to keep a close eye on their kids, as cases of kids being abducted from schools, shopping centres, parks and even from their own doorstep are becoming rampant.  Mulling over this and the low statistics of crimes over there, one wonders ... is the influence of modern day lifestyle and its luxury a contributing factor to crime?  When one sees and craves for something another has, be it a modern gadget, branded clothes, shoes or bags, the need to own it may develop deeper into greed and greed will then become the driving factor to steal or rob. 

Chong Kneas village... the way we saw it that day, is a place full of contradictions.  The beauty of these people’s simple lives stood out from the ugliness of poverty.  The warmth of these people’s smiles shone out from the ugly thatched houses.  Playful kids filled the air with giggles and laughter.  Whatever hardship these people face in their lives, they can still put up a bright face.  It was interesting the way they live their life, taking each day as it comes, there was no hurry in doing anything.  These people, just like the rest of the Cambodian people we met, have a special way of touching hearts with their warm smiles and gentle ways.